Hey everyone, We finished up on this months PC for our club. We call it the "Crimson Rari". Here is the full build log : Our showcase : Build timelapse : Build walk through : Unboxing : Let us know what you think in the comments 🙂 We'll be sending it to someone in 3 weeks!

Hi everyone, First of all, I'd like to apologise to anyone who has been caused an inconvenience due to our cancel / refund system in the last 2 months or so. Due to a change in PayPal where we had to migrate from what's called "IPN" to "Webhooks" in a rush as IPN is is being deprecated, a few bugs emerged without us knowing because there is nothing in PayPal's documentation which states IPN subscriptions are separate from Webhook subscriptions, this concept still makes no sense to me. What it means is, if someone subscribes through the IPN flow, their subscription does not trigger webhooks, this really bewildered us since the subscriptions look exactly the same in the PayPal dashboard and thus, the result caused complete havoc. Since we changed from IPN to Webhooks, we also had to restructure how our data looks, changing the concept of how we format subscriptions entirely, this meant that Stripe subscriptions were not exempt from trouble. While developing solutions and fixing everything, we tried our best to stay on top of emails and send out countless refunds and help everyone we could to manage their subscription, I personally dedicated a large portion of my day to dealing with the issues this migration caused. It is possible to manage a subscription directly in the PayPal & Stripe dashboard but we understand that it is important for this process to be made as easy and fluid as possible, we really want to make sure members are happy with what we provide. We worked tirelessly with one goal in mind, fix the cancellation process and the refund process, making it easy and hassle free for people trying to achieve these two things. After rigorous testing extending weeks, we believe that the new subscription management dashboard is ready for use, it also now comes with email notifications to our team on failed cancellations and refunds, so we can proactively look into the problems and make sure members are happy. Here's where you find it. https://www.thecrimsonmarket.com/account Click on the Manage Subscription button here. This will take you to the new dashboard. Here's what it looks like with the emails redacted. This dashboard allows you to see each individual subscription, how many points you have accumulated for it and of course, cancel it. Now we have also revamped and upgraded our refund system. Which you can find by clicking on terms & conditions in our footer. And finding the refund policy. And clicking the Refund Me button. There you can select eligible subscriptions and refund them! Remember, the most we can do is send triggers & events to PayPal and Stripe, we've tested it to our best ability so far but with third party integrations there can always be caveats, plus, software in general is complex and there can always be something missing. We will continue to monitor everything and improve this system, there is a dedicated section of the team now working on making the Cancel & Refund systems are good as they can be with one main goal of making it easy for people to cancel. If people can also provide their reasons for cancelling and refunding, that is very helpful for us to improve the world wide gaming club for everyone else. Please keep in mind we are a group of Family & Friends, while our group is growing, we are not at the scale of something like Facebook or Reddit, however, we take bugs and members very seriously and will work towards making things good and right a lot harder than an employee of a standard company as TCM is really a reflection of who we are and what we want to achieve. - However we are still human and can miss something here and there, I only ask that you let us know in a manner which helps us identify and fix the issue. If you have any issues, please do not hesitate to email us or create a ticket on discord, I will happily be at your service 🙂 If you have any feedback for our cancellation and refunds are handled, please drop a comment below! If you are here and are about to cancel or make a refund, thank you for your initial interest in TCM and our world wide gaming club, even if you signed up for free and left within your 30 day period, just know that the Golden Ticket was designed for people like you to have the opportunity to get the PC for free, so I'd like to thank you for trusting us and at least dipping your toes in 🙂 Have a good day!

Congratulations to Gangel Here is the time stamp for the video in case you missed it.

Crimson PC Build Log Step 1: Alright guys so here we are for the Crimson PC, so first of all, we start by grabbing out the Motherboard, CPU, RAM, M.2 and the backplate for the CPU Cooler. Step 2: Once we got all that out, we start by opening the CPU socket bracket, and inserting the CPU into the slot, ensuring that the triangle on the Motherboard and CPU are aligned up, now I actually couldn't find said triangle on this particular Motherboard, I'm sure it was there I was just unable to find it, so I just to line the pins on the Motherboard to the pins on the CPU. Step 3: Next to install was the M.2, so I had to remove the M.2 heatsink/cover so that I could install it. Now with this board in particular it was completely tool less, I undid the button slip on the left side of the cover and it popped straight up, now I instert the M.2 into the slot and turn the pre installed tool less clip that holds it down. Once completed I removed the plastic off the thermal pad on the inside of the cover and reinstalled it. Step 4: Now I was ready to get my RAM installed with was easy enough, the board has 4 slots and I was using 4 sticks, so no need to check the manual to find which slots were for dual channel. I then undid the clips on the end of each of the 4 Ram sockets on the motherboard and installed them 1 by 1, ensuring along the way that my sticks were aligned to the orientation of the socket. Step 5: This step was quick and easy, I grabbed the backplate for the CPU cooler, and removed the plastic from the double sided tape it uses to stick to the motherboard. I flipped the Motherboard over, and installed it onto the back of the CPU socket. Step 6: I then grabbed out my Power Supply and the necessary cables for this computer, now I didn't realize this at this point but I will point it out, the Motherboard we used actually needed 2 8-pin EPS power cables for CPU power and a dedicated 8-pin PCIE power cable for PCIE power. So I used those cables, a 24-pin, a 600w Graphics and a Sata power cable. Once I had them all installed, I was able to install the Power Supply into the back of the case. Step 7: I was now at the time to install the Motherboard into the case, so I grabbed the 9 necessary screws and did just that, lining the IO shield to the back of the case. Step 8: Now it was time to grab my AIO CPU cooler and get it ready for installation. So to start doing this, I removed the Radiator mount from the top of the case, by undoing the 6 screws on top and pulling it out. Once I had that removed, I was ready to install my Radiator and fans to the mount. Now here's where things get interesting, I tried to mount the Radiator on top of the mount with the fans on the bottom, but this was impossible. The provided space for the tubes coming out the Radiator to go, were not big enough to fit this Radiator. So after installing it all once that way, I had to remove it and place the fans on top of the mount and the Radiator on the bottom. Step 9: So this is where I was ready to install the Graphics Card, or at least I thought I was ready. I installed the Graphics Card to find out, that all the Motherboard cables like the fan headers and the ARGB headers were all behind where the Graphics Card was to sit. So I then had to remove the Graphics Card and start plugging in the cables. Step 10: At this point I have realized that the Motherboard had only 6 fan headers and I was going to need 7. So I went and grabbed a PWM fan hub and installed this into the back of the case. I actually installed it into the hard drive bay (due to only using m.2 on this build that space was completely unoccupied) Step 11: Now that I have rectified the issue of not enough fan headers, I went back to plugging in all my cabling and sorting out the best runs for them to look neat in the computer. Finally after doing all this, I was finally ready to reinstall the Graphics Card. Step 12: Now that the Graphics Card is back, I have finally got completely build computer and am ready to plug in and turn on. Here we go, I plugged her in and unfortunately one of the fans were not spinning, so I had to turn it back off and reseat (just basically unplug it and plug it back in) and turn it back. This time the fan was spinning and the computer was fully working Step 13: So now all that was left was to plug it in and install windows. I also played with a couple of the settings in the bios to get the best performance from this computer.

This is a really nice PC, I almost don't want to send it away xD It's simple and elegant, it's got that see through, gold, theme and I love it. It is themed to Elden Ring originally, we've got the Elden Ring symbol etched onto the glass which is pretty awesome! Here's all the content. Kintsugi Build Time Lapse Kintsugi Elden Ring PC Show case Kintsugi PC Unboxing And we have 6 episodes of the walk through to build it. Here is Part 1 Also you can check out the full written build log in the build log section of this club. So it's in just a few hours on Raxx's stream, I wish you the best, we'll be revealing the "Crimson Computer" in the next few hours as well!

Kintsugi Build Log Step 1: Alright so I started by grabbing the motherboard out and placing it on it's box Step 2: I then opened the CPU socket on the motherboard and whilst making sure the arrows in the corner lined up, installed the CPU into it's socket. Then I closed the socket with the lever, popping off the cover in the process Step 3: Next step I did was grab my CPU water block mounts and installed them into the motherboard, after that I then applied the thermal paste to the CPU and screwed on the water block. Step 4: I grabbed my 4 sticks of ram and installed them in the ram slots. Step 5: Then I grabbed out my case, laid it down and removed the side panel. (The next step was done out of instinct as it's the way I have usually build PC's, however I would 100% recommend you do this step after you have installed the Power Supply into the included Powerboard and then into the case) Step 6: I then installed the motherboard into the case, using the cases included mounting screws. Step 7: I then had to install the Powerboard onto the Power Supply, however this was easier said than done, let me explain. The sheer amount of force that it took to install was unbelievable. I had to use all my might to make sure every connector was 100 percent inserted. I thought it was quick and easy to install, but after close examination I found that the connectors werent going in without me forcing them. Step 8: Once I had it completely inserted I had to get the Power Supply and Powerboard installed into the case. On the backside of the case there was a small hook shaped bracket that needed to be removed as well as a Power Supply cover bracket. Got both of them out, and now had to get the Power Supply in. At this moment I realized this case actually had another bracket on the bottom of the inside of the case, this bracket was to be preinstalled onto the Power Supply prior to its installation in the case. I unscrewed the 2 screws holding this bracket into the case and installed the bracket onto the Power Supply. Step 9: Now that I have rectified the bracket issue, I can finally install the Power Supply into the case, and this is where my issue I mentioned earlier arose. Installing the Power Supply with the Motherboard already installed was almost impossible, I had to kind of angle it into place, where the Powerboard would slot into the mentioned hook shaped bracket. Once I had that lined up, I was able to screw the bracket I had previously installed onto the Power Supply to the bottom of the case. Step 10: At this point I was ready to start working on the Radiators, both of which were 240mm and required 2 fans installed onto each prior to their installation into the case, so that's what I did, I then went to install the radiators into the case and quickly found out that the screws that came with the radiator (which are long enough to go through a standard metal frame case which is usually only about 2 or 3mms thick) were not long enough to go through the thicker acrylic on this case. So I had to go and get some M4x10mm bolts (12 of them). Once I had the necessary bolts, I then installed the radiators to the case. Step 11: Alright so at this point, it was starting to look like a computer but with a very messy birds nest of cables everything, so I took a little bit of time moving the cables around and connecting the 2 fans of each radiator together, daisy chain style and plugged them into the Powerboard. I also grabbed the included 24 pin and 8 pin ribbon cables that came with the case, and got them installed into the Powerboard and Motherboard. Step 12: Now this is where another issue arose for me, I was so quick to get things installed into the case, I forgot that this case comes with a touch screen button and that the cable wasn't installed into the case yet, I so had to grab that cable out of the box, and my long reach tweezers and plug it into the bottom of the Powerboard and into the bottom of the front panel of the case. Step 13: Now it was time to get the Graphics Card installed, so this case specifically came with a riser cable, so I installed it into the Motherboard and then installed the Graphics Card into the vertical mounted riser PCIE slot. Step 14: At this point I was ready to get all my fittings installed onto the Graphics Card, CPU block, both Radiators and the reservoir. Now the Graphics Card came with the plugs on the back and the space for the fittings at the front, so firstly this was where I had to waste some time and get the Graphics Card out of the case again, and move the plugs from the back to the front. Now I was able to install the Graphics Card fittings into the back of the Graphics Card. Step 15: Now I can actually get my fittings in without issue, firstly I installed a 90 degree g1/4 brass fitting into the inlet and outlet of the Graphics Card, with one facing upwards but on a slight angle towards the CPU block and the other going straight towards the bottom of the reservoir panel on the front of the case. Once they were on, I then installed a g1/4 to 14mm OD brass fittings onto both. Step 16: Next step was to add my 2 fittings into the CPU block, now 1 of which, the right side, was a 25mm extension fitting and a 90 degree fitting facing down towards the Graphics Card fitting I had previously fitted, after that I then installed a g1/4 to 14mm OD fitting. The left side of the CPU block though was a straight fitting, ready for a clear tube to install. Now this was a big issue that arose once the building process had already been started. The bend necessary to get from the CPU block to the top Radiator was impossible with brass pipes. Brass pipes can only make a 90 degree bend with enough length as to not crease or crack. Now I'm going to mention now, that I did also have this issue with another part of the water loop. When going from the back Radiator to the top of the Reservoir panel at the front of the case, so I had to install a clear tubing here as well. Step 17: Alright, so it was time to get the fittings into the Radiators, so as just mentioned the back Radiator, had 1 straight fitting for clear tubing. However the other side (left) of the Radiator needed not 1 but 2, 25mm extension fittings, a 90 degree g1/4 fitting and then a g1/4 to 14mm OD brass fitting, and all of that was necessary so that I would be able to get the brass pipe around the Powerboard. Step 18: Now we were able to install the fittings onto the top Radiator. Which the back one was the other end of the clear tubing, so all that was installed was a g1/4 straight fitting. As for the front fitting, I had to install a 25mm g1/4 extension fitting, a g1/4 90 degree and a g1/4 to 14mm OD brass fittings. Step 19: At this stage we had got all the fittings installed minus the inlet and outlet of the reservoir front panel. So we next did that, installed a g1/4 clear tube fitting onto the top and installed a g1/4 to 14mm OD brass fitting into the bottom. Step 20: Time has now arrived for me to start measuring and cutting the tubing. So, I started with the clear tubing as it would be the easier of the 2. I cut the tubing into 2 lengths to fit the 2 spots I would be using the clear tubing. I then got them installed into the case, ensuring that both the O-rings for the fittings were all in place and that the fittings were secured as tight as possible. (TIP: ENSURE THE FITTINGS ARE TIGHT AS CAN BE) Step 21: I, now grabbed out my brass tubing and measure the 3 pieces I was going to need. Once they were cut I lightly filed back any and all burr's that arose from cutting the brass tubing. I was now ready to install the last of the tubing, I started with the top tube going from the top Radiator to the back Radiator, again ensuring every single connection was tight and every O-ring was where it was intended. I then installed the brass pipe from the CPU to the GPU, and then the Graphics Card to the bottom of the reservoir. Step 22: Now with all of that done, it was time to install the DDC pump to front of the case in the intended space provided. All that was left was to install the molex power to the Power Supply and the pump header into the Powerboard. Step 23: Now it's finally arrived, it's time to fill the loop. Thankfully this is done very easy on this build, thanks to a switch at the top of the Powerboard. Now this switch works like a manual power jump start for the DDC pump. So instead of having to unplug everything from the Powerboard except the DDC pump, we are able to just use this switch to fill the loop. So firstly, I filled the reservoir built into the front panel, by removing the plug at the front, and filling the loop with our coolant solution. Once the reservoir is full, I then use the switch on the Powerboard to boot up the DDC pump and start pumping the liquid, once the reservoir is at about 30 percent full, I would flip the switch off and fill it back up. Then repeating this process til the loop is full (DON'T LET THE RESERVOIR COMPLETELY EMPTY OR YOU WILL GET AIR BUBBLES IN YOUR LOOP) Step 24: Okay so at this point we are done with the build, so it was time to boot up the PC at my workbench, test that it boots, go into the bios, tweak the few setting necessary to get the best performance out of the computer, like enabling XMP to get the max ram speeds from the DDR5 sticks we used. Step 25: Now all that was left was to install Windows 11, and we're done.

Hi everyone, We are working on overhauling how cancellation works at TCM. Currently to cancel your membership at TCM you go through these steps. Login Click on your name in the top right corner Click on Account Settings Click on Manage subscription Add a Reason (helps us make the club better for people) Click on Cancel (NOT STAY) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- For anyone who has been burdened by the current process, please keep in mind that we did this as quickly as possible after we realised the PayPal dashboard was being a pain for people to cancel their subscription, especially in some countries where the PayPal dashboard is different to what we see in Australia where we figured it would be easy to manage. Our current system also cancels every single subscription you have with us in one go, I know some people don't want this as I've been messaged several times about people wanting to cancel just one of them but this should also show to people that we are not here trying to invent things to make it difficult for people to cancel the club, in fact we are trying to do the exact opposite we just do not have infinite time and resources to achieve what we want instantly. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- We want to make the cancellation process smoother for everyone, we are working on a dashboard dedicated for managing subscriptions individually so people can see exactly what's going on. TCM wants members to not be frustrated by cancelling and we want to at least know why someone is cancelling so we can work on improving the club for our members. If you have any feedback or feature requests in terms of managing a subscription which can involve cancelling or even resubscribing later, please add a comment below.

We just finished fixing everything, sorry for the inconvenience, we are working really hard to evolve memberships into something more valuable to everyone involved, with the ground work that's been laid out during this month, we will be able to move forward in terms of making it a lot easier to see your individual subscriptions and manage them one by one. Our priority is to make sure people can join & cancel as smoothly as possible and have all of the information regarding their membership available to them. Thanks for being patient and please do not hesitate to reach out if you have any issues with your account, preferably on discord or on here as emails can easily get lost in the sea.

We are aware of some issues being caused by the recent overhaul to how memberships and subscriptions work for the club. Please do not worry as everything is tracked in PayPal & Stripe, if you are seeing "Not subscribed" Or have not received loyalty points for a recent payment, this is mostly a User Interface bug. We will make 100% sure everything is resolved by the next spin, we are trying our best to fix everything up, ultimately we take anything related to loyalty points very seriously and have vigorous logs, event tracking and more on our side as well as on Stripe & PayPal's side. It's very important to us that everyone has the exact LP they should have and are active when they should be so we will triple check everything and once the news comes out that everything is fixed, if there is anything off with your account please do not hesitate to notify us (A news post will be made once the issues are considered to be resolved) I think it goes without saying that what we are trying to accomplish here is pretty complicated and bound to have some technical issues but we have always been able to track down any issue members have had, we are here to serve you noble Gamers. Please bare with us a bit 🙂 - On a side note, we are also working on a way to show all of your separate subscriptions in a new dashboard page in account settings so you can manage each of them more dynamically as well as get more information about what you have and how. So there's that 🙂

Spin again for sure

Alright, so my personal opinion would definitely be to never pull a built computer apart, maybe I'm a wee bit biased on the topic, I would personally be sad to see a computer I built not being able to be used. Now I like the idea of roll again next month, that's definitely more practical, but my personal favourite would be creating an auction for members to use Loyalty Points as a new way for people to engage as a community. FYI: Using an open Q&A like this, where each member gets to be included in the conversation, is such a great way to handle these decision. 🙂

1. Spin again next month. 3. Auction off the computer where members will be able to bid on the computer with their loyalty points. These are my choices. I think they are both equally fair in my opinion. I think it is great you are asking the community to give feedback , rather than just trying to decide for yourselves. Keep up the great work~~~

From a stand point of feeling good about being in the club I would say to spin it again. There are 2 ways I see this working for both you as the runners and us as the members. 1) Spin again for it in 2-3 months following the miss, this way you can have a bit of safety time padding around some of the bigger/intricate builds. 2) Replace one of the mid-month console spins with the PC. This method maintains the 1 PC a month average rate and if you get to the point of high/low rollers then the second chance draw can be extended to the low rollers. From a loyalty point view, I'd say any of the methods are good. Unless a person holds a large number of loyalty points then auctioning it wouldn't matter to them. I'm not sure how the split of points looks across all accounts, so that would be some data you could consider. Doing the auction might incentivize some people to buy more points though, so there is that to look at from a business model as well.

First let me say it's awesome how you ask for the opinion of the members. Once again it just shows how committed you all are to making this such a great place for gamers. I say spin the wheel again next month. Now way I would want to see that gold plated beaty scraped for a new build. Each one y'all have made is their own story.

alright ill go with spin again next month 😂

LOL Badplayer this is a serious matter xD

directly give badplayerhs (me) the first unclaimed pc, thank u

We are juggling around a few ideas on how to better handle rewards that have been unclaimed, there has only ever been one so far but we imagine there could be more. The first and only unclaimed PC is the 24ct Gold PC as after 2 months of attempting to contact the recipient from multiple emails, we had no reply. For this particular PC, we decided to spin again for it but it made us think about different options. We have three options. 1. Spin again next month 2. Re-use the parts to create a new design and build and spin for it 3. Auction off the computer where members will be able to bid on the computer with their loyalty points. We want to know in particular, how this would effect the club in terms of member acquisition and retention. Which option would make you feel even better about joining the club? Which option would make you feel better about owning Loyalty Points? We'd appreciate if you could leave your responses below as a comment.

We saw the Hibernator Sleeper PC go out. CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D (AM5, 8 Core) Cooler: Cougar FORZA 135 Premium Dual Tower Air Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte B850 AORUS ELITE WIFI7 DDR5 ATX RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6400MT/s Storage: 4TB Crucial P3 M.2 NVMe PCIe SSD GPU: GALAX RTX 5070 12GB GDDR7 1-Click OC PSU: 1000W SilverStone Gold Modular Gen5 PSU Cooling: Dual 80mm Deepcool Fans, Silverstone PWM Hub Congratulations to the winner adgisme - He had 42 loyalty points during the spin which happened on Rax's stream. Here is the youtube version since twitch deletes it after a while. I sent him the form to fill out to have his PC delivered as soon as we can. We will be spending this week focusing entirely on delivery. The PC for next month, will be the 24ct gold plated PC, Gold Ghost. We had a JoeDon91 previously get picked for this PC but after several attempts to email him from my business and different personal emails, he never responded, he also only had a Golden Ticket and would've got it entirely for free so I presume he used a fake PayPal account or something like that to win and never check anything, I like to give people the benefit of the doubt so anything could have happened and I don't want to call anyone out for using fake accounts (don't do it :P) but in this case I tried my best over a few months to get in contact and this is the first person ever to not respond to the reward. So be it, someone else will get the Gold Ghost! Meanwhile we are working on the Elden Ring Kintsugi PC, More updates on this one soon, it's going to be right after this, then we have the antique Macintosh build and shortly after that we'll do the Last Epoch PC when they drop the next season 🙂

We thought, well, we knew it would be a good idea to give people updates about what is going on in the club since people might be wondering about the progress of the current build, their own reward deliveries, what the next builds might be and overall how the club is going. This is the beginning of that. Let's start with the current build, The Last Epoch PC. This is an extremely difficult build with a very intricate water cooling system and a details case mod which we had to 3D model, print, assemble, sand, prime, paint 3 coats on and mount. WORK IN PROGRESS PHOTOS - nothing is final here EHG told us that they would help us show the PC off, unfortunately we think that if we were to send it to someone next weekend, it would be in the spotlight for too short of a time for the amount of effort time and money put into it. Therefore we have decided to move this build to next month, I hope the concepts we showed before being realised here in these new images is enough for you to not get too upset with us for this decision. WORK IN PROGRESS PHOTOS - nothing is final here (we have more polishing etc to do) We do have a saving grace, a friend of ours who goes by the name Waffles has been building computers full time as a life style and profession, we have decided that he will join us in building custom PC's, he is undertaking the Kintsugi build which is an amazing computer but we got stuck with that one too because the waterblocks for 5080s are not available, ours was supposed to arrive before the 10th of April and then we got an email saying it will come at the end of May. So Waffles did some quick thinking and told us everyone loves his sleeper builds, so we went ahead and started to concept out a sleeper build. We got all of the parts and he went to work, he provided the necessary videos (it isn't easy especially for the first time to get good footage, he made a build log which you can read, we edited all of the videos and posted them). This computer is done and this is the one we want to send out next weekend. Now for some people we are still working through getting their reward to their door, we always do achieve it, we delivered a computer to China (not easy, had to go there personally on a plane) and we delivered a computer to South Africa (insane if you think about it), a computer with a real diamond in it too. That one came with a broken ram card (We tested everything before shipping it so the plane turbulence may have caused damage), we have literally replaced every single damaged component if there is one in a PC going as far as replacing an entire GPU for the first clock we sent (damaged in flight). Based on these experiences, we have learned to take great care when shipping to certain countries, we get custom crates made, go very heavy on packing, get premium delivery services (we had computers stuck in random warehouses etc otherwise), this is time consuming and costs a lot of money so please bare with us if you have a large reward which we need to ship to you, some of the custom computers we build are THIRTY KILOGRAMS and have intricate designs so we want to make sure it gets to people in one piece. We will get better and faster at shipping worldwide as we go but so far we have delivered every computer thus far and replaced any damaged parts (only happens about 10% of the time). Now let's get on to what we have planned next, We have been working on a project revolving around the first ever Macintosh, we are trying to fit it out with the best modern parts it can fit, we've already cleaned up the case to remove stains and yellowing. The biggest challenge we have put forward to ourselves is to make the Screen of the Macintosh hook up the the modern GPU, that means we will be seeing modern games in low pixel count black and white on the screen. This is going to be insane if it works the way we think it will, it's going to be a real gem and of course you can hook up additional monitors to play games properly, it's just for show but we want the screen to work properly. You can check out how this is done here We'll of course have the full build video etc soon, we already filmed taking the Mac apart which was very interesting to us as we were dealing with some of the first harddrives in personal computing, these things had 20 megabytes of disk space xD. We will try to give weekly updates now here 🙂

What You’ll Need Hydrogen peroxide (6–12%) – liquid form, not cream Large plastic bin – big enough to fully submerge the Mac’s shell parts Clean water (if diluting concentrated peroxide) Clear lid or cling film – to trap heat and intensify UV Sunlight or a UV lamp Gloves and eye protection Optional: a bit of OxiClean (activator, makes it fizz a bit) Step-by-Step: Retrobrighting by Soaking 1. Disassemble the Mac Fully remove all electronics—only the plastic should be submerged. Be gentle with clips and tabs; they get brittle with age. 2. Clean the Plastics First Wash with dish soap and warm water. Scrub off dirt so the peroxide can work on the actual surface. 3. Prepare the Peroxide Bath Fill your bin with enough hydrogen peroxide to cover all parts. If using a high-concentration peroxide (like 35%), dilute it with water to ~10–12%. Add a small scoop of OxiClean (optional, helps activate the peroxide with oxygen bubbles). 4. Submerge and Seal Place the plastic parts in the bath, making sure they’re fully submerged. Use plastic mesh, rocks, or zip ties to keep them from floating. Cover the bin with clear plastic wrap or a transparent lid. 5. Expose to UV Place the entire bin in direct sunlight for 6–12 hours (or longer if yellowing is deep). Sunlight warms the bath and activates the peroxide. Stir gently or rotate parts occasionally if possible. 6. Rinse and Dry Remove parts, rinse thoroughly with water, and inspect the results. Dry completely before reassembly. 7. Repeat if Necessary Some yellowing might need a second round, especially if it’s deep or uneven. Notes and Warnings ALWAYS wear gloves and goggles when working with peroxide—especially in large amounts. Don’t use metal tools in the bath—it reacts with peroxide. Don’t leave in sun too long, or the plastic can warp if the bin gets too hot. Do this outdoors or in a well-ventilated area—oxygen off-gassing can build up pressure.

Alright guys, so first time posting in here, just want to state that the hibernator PC was a hoot to build, and here's a step by step guide to what I did to make this PC. I hope people enjoy the read as much as I enjoyed the write. Step 1 - I started by lining up where the motherboard standoffs go, due to it being an older case bought second hand, it didn’t include them, so I also had to grab some that I had sitting around. Step 2 – I grabbed the motherboard out and sat it on its box. Step 3 - I then grabbed out the CPU from the box, then I opened the CPU socket on the motherboard, by lifting up the socket lever. I then lined up arrow on the CPU socket and the arrow on the CPU itself, and I placed the CPU down, then I pulled the lever down which released the socket cover from its slot. Step 4 – Next we have the ram to install, which just meant open the box and pull the four sticks of 16gb ddr5 ram, made sure the notch lines up and then installed them one by one. Step 5 – I removed the m.2 cover from the motherboard using the clip on the motherboard, installed the 4tb m.2 into the primary slot, after that I removed the plastic from the thermal pads included on the m.2 cover and then put the cover back on Step 6 - Then I removed the plastic cooler brackets from the Motherboard and installed the brackets that were needed for the Forza 135 Dual Air Tower Cooler. Step 7 – After the cooler brackets are in place, I grabbed the case and had to remove an old cpu cooler air guide from the side panel. Step 8 – Now it’s time to install the motherboard into the case, and this motherboard has the I/O shield attached to the board, so no need to install that first. Then I screwed the motherboard down. Step 9 – Once the motherboard is in place, it was time to install the cooler, so we started by pasting the cpu with a x shape (my own preference), then I removed the plastic film from the heatsink and installed it onto the CPU socket. Step 10 – Then I grabbed out the power supply, and installed it with the four included screws. Step 11 – After that, I installed the two fans onto the tower cooler, with the 120mm fan on the outside, and the 140mm fan on the inside. Mounting them with the included clips to do so. Step 12 – Time to install the graphics card. So, I grabbed out the GPU from the box, installed it into the appropriate slot and screwed it down with the 2 necessary screws. (As mentioned earlier, this was a second hand case, so the PCI-E slot covers were already removed) Step 13 – I then installed the back case fan with the four necessary screws. Step 14 – Alright so at this point I then grabbed out my g-connector that was included with the motherboard, and installed my front I/O cables into the correct slots, then I plugged the g-connector into the correct spot on the motherboard Step 15 – At this point I have had to back track a bit, and pull out the tower cooler, as there was not enough room to fit my hand in to get the 8 pin motherboard connector into its slot. Once the tower cooler was removed I grabbed my 8-pin, 24-pin and my 12V2x6 / 12VHPWR (16-pin) cables from the power supply box. Connecting them to the power supply and then to the motherboard and graphics card. Step 16 – Now, I quickly grab a power cable and plug the computer in and test that it turns on with no errors. Once I know it turns on with no errors, I turn it off really quickly and reinsert the cooler onto the CPU. Step 17 – Now we are at the stage of cable managing, so I rerouted as many cable as possible into neat channels, and use tie downs to make it look as neat as possible.